Tags: Rioja, Women in Wine, Wine Culture, Spanish Wine, Winemaking Traditions, Terroir, Wine Q&A, Wine Tourism, Rioja Women’s History Month, Wine Blog
Discover the rich tapestry of Rioja’s winemaking legacy in our exclusive Q&A with Ana Fabiano. In this insightful conversation, Ana shares her deep expertise on the region’s ancient traditions, distinctive terroir, and the influential role of women shaping today’s winemaking culture. Whether you’re a wine professional or a passionate enthusiast, this feature offers a unique window into the timeless charm and modern innovation that define Rioja.
Q: Can you share your background and how you developed an interest and expertise in Rioja?
(mention #ShallWeWinePutMeOn at time of purchase for a free gift)
Ana: I studied in Spain during the transition to democracy, a captivating period when the nation was becoming “unleashed.” Experiencing this transformation on a daily basis was both exhilarating and monumental. The preface of my book delves into this journey in greater depth. Shortly after the transition, recognizing the economic importance of the vine and winemaking in Spain, the government established the USA Wine Center—and I became a founding member of Wines from Spain.
As the industry evolved and many new D.O. regions emerged, Rioja experienced its ebbs and flows. I later co-founded and served as Managing Director of RiojaTrade, the business division of the Rioja Wine Government’s campaign in the USA. During those years, I also researched and authored the first book by a U.S. publisher titled The Wine Region of Rioja, which is now in its second edition. Expertise, I believe, is achieved and maintained through intense, exhaustive, and constant work. I have always found this process stimulating, and I felt that Rioja needed—and deserved—a voice. It is for this reason that my book is dedicated to the people of Rioja.
Q: What makes Rioja unique or special in terms of terroir, winemaking traditions, or history?
Ana: Rioja has an ancient, classic, and modern history in winemaking. Old “lagares” (ancient stone wine presses) dating from the Roman occupation—which began in the 2nd century BCE—are preserved throughout the region. Similarly, as in other principal wine regions of Europe, the monastic community introduced a lasting wine culture in Rioja many centuries ago. By the time of Queen Isabella’s reign in the 15th century, Rioja was already renowned for its grape growing and winemaking. In a mostly arid country, Rioja can be considered a rich treasure. It is relatively small—70 miles long and 30 miles wide—and is surrounded by interlocking mountain ranges that protect and nourish its microclimates.
The landscape is stunning, and the topography is complex. Rioja is less vulnerable to the threats of climate change than many other regions, making it somewhat privileged in that regard. Soils predominantly vary from chalky clay to limestone, and the many valleys within the region—shaped by the seven significant tributaries feeding into the mighty Ebro River—each possess their own unique characteristics and personality, contributing to a fabled, agriculturally rich area. Furthermore, the Rioja region adheres to stringent quality control regulations throughout grape growing and winemaking, enforced by the Rioja Regulatory Control Board, which was established in 1925. Every bottle of DOCa. Rioja must carry a Trust Seal—a symbol that, in my opinion, is crucial for establishing and protecting a standard of quality.
Q: What specific styles or varietals should wine lovers look out for in this region?
Ana:Rioja boasts 66,000 hectares dedicated to grape growing, spread across three distinct zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. All red grape varieties in Rioja are indigenous, with some having been rescued from extinction by a handful of visionary Riojan winemakers and professors. Today, the primary red grape, Tempranillo, accounts for 80% of the vines. I believe Rioja offers the finest expression of Tempranillo—a noble and lovely variety that can be crafted as a blend or as a monovarietal, perfect for both young and aged wines. In the words of many winemakers, it is a very forgiving varietal.
Aside from Tempranillo, other red varieties typically used for blending include Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo; however, these are also produced as 100% monovarietals. Winemakers often become especially excited—or even seduced—by Graciano. Additionally, there is a very old and interesting variety called Maturana, though it is planted in only minuscule amounts.
As for whites, White Rioja is equally exciting, with much to explore today. While indigenous white varieties remain important, in 2008, through a controversial process, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdejo were approved for cultivation—available today only in limited hectares. Approximately 68% of the white grapes are Viura, and when grown on old vines with low yields, Viura produces stunning wines. The second most widely planted white variety is Tempranillo Blanco—a mutation discovered on a shoot by a grower in 1988. Approved twenty years later, it now appears in both blends and as a monovarietal. I personally love what it can do, and I am a strong proponent of preserving indigenous grape varieties in all wine regions.
Q: What are your favorite aspects of this region’s wine culture or local food pairings?
Ana: I have conducted extensive research on what defines an authentic wine culture, and Rioja qualifies one hundred percent. This authenticity reflects the value system of its people and influences how they live and approach life—a quality to be deeply appreciated. I also love that Rioja is very much “in the hands of its people.” The purpose and historical relevance of our Rioja Women’s History Month Tribute pay homage to this fact in a meaningful way.
Consider, for example, that out of over 110,000 plots of land—with an average size of one acre—there are nearly 16,000 deeds of ownership, a constant that has persisted for more than half a century. This enduring energy is evident in the pedestrian streets, local bistros, and park benches across the 144 municipalities authorized for grape growing. Local cuisine here is equally compelling: lamb chops seasoned with garlic, salt, and a drizzle of olive oil are often grilled over vine cuttings and are simply delicious. A staple regional dish featured in my book is Patatas a la Riojana—a hearty potato stew with local chorizo sausage. Moreover, Rioja—especially in Rioja Oriental—is an agricultural region where seasonal harvests such as mushrooms, white asparagus, and legumes frequently grace the table.
Q: Why should wine lovers visit Rioja?
Ana: One compelling reason to visit Rioja is its recognition as one of the most hospitable places in the world. In 2023, Booking.com released a ranking based on 240 million verified customer reviews, and Rioja ranked #1. This accolade warmed my heart, as it echoes what I published in the first edition of my book over a decade ago. Riojans are exceptional hosts, taking immense pleasure in sharing their land and its bounties.
Starting with wine, Rioja offers an array of delicious, authentic wines to sample. Due to consolidated U.S. distribution channels, many of these wines are not readily available in the United States, making a visit a truly delightful adventure. I highly recommend a Tapas Crawl in Logroño, where you can sample a variety of wines during a fun evening out.
Moreover, Rioja boasts the greatest concentration of architectural wineries in any wine region in the world. These stunning wineries promise artistic, sensory experiences and unforgettable memories. Today, Rioja is also home to several Michelin-starred restaurants, making it a veritable foodie destination. Alongside the Michelin stars, you will find both traditional cuisine and innovative dishes—such as emulsified chorizo —demonstrating how creativity in winemaking and culinary arts is reaching new peaks.
The region’s diverse topography also allows for extraordinary hot air balloon rides that capture an aerial view of the patchwork-like landscape that has the beauty of a quilt. Hiking, cycling, and innovative winery tours are plentiful. Rioja is even the birthplace of the Castilian language; tucked away in the Najerilla valley are the monasteries of YUSO and SUSO, where it all began. Today, these sites are UNESCO World Heritage Sites—simply spectacular. Rioja is easily accessible by train, plane, or car, and lodging options range from rural guest homes to five-star hotels. I am confident that a visit will exceed your expectations.
Q: Why do you think this region will gain more attention or appreciation in 2025?
Ana:Rioja is celebrated as one of the five greatest red wine regions in the world and exports its wines to over 125 countries globally. The region is home to many grower and winemaking groups that, collectively, share attributes such as pride, generations of a cultivated wine culture, an unwavering pursuit of quality, and sustainability rooted in ancestral practices. In numerous research trips for my book, I found that quality is a constant, nagging concern—one that is addressed by wineries led by multiple generations, ensuring authenticity in every bottle. In my opinion, and with certainty in Rioja, “heritage sets a standard, not a price point.”
Today’s consumers are increasingly aware of the origins of their food, and wine, as an agricultural product, is no exception. Rioja wines are noted for their tremendous harmony—a balance that allows them to pair beautifully with various cuisines or be enjoyed on their own. Whether one is a dedicated wine lover or an occasional drinker, Rioja has a way of simplifying and enhancing one’s dining experience rather than complicating it.
Rioja Women’s History Month Tribute Spotlight:
Over 50% of the current winemakers in Rioja are female—a fact directly attributable to the region’s rich wine culture and the exceptional viticulture and winemaking curriculum at the University of Rioja in Logroño, La Rioja, Spain. To celebrate these accomplished winemakers and their extraordinary wines, we created the inaugural Rioja Women’s History Month Tribute. While we recommend all their wines, here is a quick reference:
Maria Larrea: Chief winemaker at CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España), a centenary winery in Rioja, where she leads an all-female team. Her Imperial Gran Reserva was the first wine from Spain to win the coveted #1 Wine of the Year from The Wine Spectator. Both this Gran Reserva and the CVNE Reserva are highly recommended.
Raquel Perez Cuevas:
As the fourth-generation principal at Bodega Ontañon, she and her three siblings cultivate family vineyards and craft world-class wines in Rioja Oriental. Their Ontañon Crianza is delicious and unique, notably for its high percentage of Garnacha in the blend. They also produce an exquisite Tempranillo Blanco from their Queiron Estate.
Mercedes Garcia: At Bodegas Montecillo, another centenary winery, Mercedes Garcia has successfully instituted many innovations while preserving the winery’s storied legacy. One notable achievement was the creation of new grower relationships, which led to the development of the awarded Viña Monty Graciano which was her greatest challenge and achievement. In 2024 it was selected as one of the top 50 wines of the world by Decanter. Also recommended is the Montecillo Limited Edition red.
Over 50% of the current winemakers in Rioja are female—a fact directly attributable to the region’s rich wine culture and the exceptional viticulture and winemaking curriculum at the University of Rioja in Logroño, La Rioja, Spain. To celebrate these accomplished winemakers and their extraordinary wines, we created the inaugural Rioja Women’s History Month Tribute. While we recommend all their wines, here is a quick reference:
Maria Larrea: Chief winemaker at CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España), a centenary winery in Rioja, where she leads an all-female team. Her Imperial Gran Reserva was the first wine from Spain to win the coveted #1 Wine of the Year from The Wine Spectator. Both this Gran Reserva and the CVNE Reserva are highly recommended.
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